Carrying a Bike

Hitch racks and e-bikes: reading the weight rating properly

A hitch-mounted bike rack on a car

Hitch racks and e-bikes: reading the weight rating properly

The most common expensive mistake in bike carrying is buying a rack rated for the number of bikes rather than for their weight. An e-bike weighs between 50 and 75 lb. Two of them is 150 lb, which is more than most platform racks are built for.

Three numbers, all of which matter

  1. Per-bike capacity. Usually 60 lb per tray on a standard rack, 65 to 80 lb on an e-bike rated one. This is the number that decides whether your bike fits.
  2. Total rack capacity. Not always double the per-bike figure. A rack can be 60 lb per bike and 100 lb total.
  3. Hitch tongue weight. The vertical load your vehicle’s hitch is rated for, which includes the rack itself. A 50 lb rack plus 150 lb of bikes is 200 lb on the hitch, and a Class I hitch is often rated for 200 lb total.

All three have to pass. People check the first, occasionally the second, and almost never the third.

Hitch classes, briefly

  • Class I — 1.25 inch receiver, typically 200 lb tongue weight. Marginal for two e-bikes.
  • Class II — 1.25 inch, typically 350 lb. Adequate for most two-bike e-bike setups.
  • Class III — 2 inch receiver, typically 500 lb. Comfortable for two heavy e-bikes.

Check your vehicle’s hitch rating, not just the receiver size. A 2 inch receiver on a small crossover may still be rated modestly.

Tyre width

Fat-tyre e-bikes run 4 to 5 inch tyres and will not sit in a standard tray designed for a 2.5 inch tyre. Racks state a maximum tyre width — check it against your actual tyre, not the frame size.

Some racks take fat tyres only with an adapter kit. Buy it at the same time; ordering it later means a trip you did not need to make.

Wheelbase

Long-tail cargo e-bikes exceed the wheelbase most trays accommodate. The tray length figure is usually buried in the specification. Measure your bike axle to axle before you order.

Loading a heavy bike alone

Lifting 65 lb to hitch height is the part people underestimate.

  • A ramp turns the lift into a push. If you are loading alone regularly, buy the rack that has one.
  • Remove the battery first. That is 7 to 10 lb off, and it should not be out in the weather anyway.
  • Heaviest bike closest to the vehicle. It reduces the leverage on the hitch.
  • Tilt function. Being able to drop the rack to reach the tailgate matters more than any other convenience feature.

Security on the road and off it

A hitch pin lock stops the rack leaving with someone else. Integrated cable locks on racks are a deterrent for a coffee stop and nothing more — do not leave e-bikes on a rack overnight in Midtown or anywhere else.

Check torque on the hitch bolt before every trip. A rack that develops play at 60 mph gets worse quickly.

Lights and plates

A loaded rack can obscure tail lights and the licence plate. Rules vary by state and a light board is inexpensive. It is also the difference between a routine drive and a stop.

Wall storage, the other half

Once the bike is home, a vertical wall rack saves a great deal of floor space in a New York apartment — as long as it is rated for the weight and fixed into studs, not plasterboard. Check the stated capacity there too; many wall hooks are rated for a 30 lb road bike.

Bring the numbers

Come to the counter on 38th with your bike’s weight, your tyre width, your wheelbase and your hitch class. Four numbers, and the choice usually narrows to one rack. We are open until 11:30 every night if daytime is not possible.

Adapters, and why the 1.25 to 2 inch one is a bad idea

Adapters that let a 2 inch rack fit a 1.25 inch receiver exist and are widely sold. They also add leverage at the weakest point in the system and most rack manufacturers explicitly void their warranty when one is used.

With two e-bikes on the back, that leverage is acting on 150 lb. Buy the rack that matches your receiver rather than adapting one that does not.

Wheel straps and frame contact

Platform racks hold the bike by the wheels, which is much better for a carbon or a heavily-shaped frame than a hanging rack that clamps the top tube. E-bikes in particular often have no usable top tube at all.

Check the ratchet arm clears your front fender and light, and that the wheel trays are long enough for the wheelbase. On a step-through e-bike, a rack that grips only the wheels is the only sensible option.

Driving with a loaded rack

Two habits. Check the hitch bolt and the strap tension at every stop, because vibration works everything loose. And remember the vehicle is now several feet longer — reversing into a space with 150 lb of bikes overhanging the bumper is how racks get bent.

Keep speeds moderate on rough surfaces. Most rack damage happens on unpaved driveways rather than on highways.

Storing the rack

A rack left on the vehicle year-round collects salt in winter and rusts at the pivot. If it is not being used for a season, take it off, clean it, and hang it in the garage. The tilt mechanism in particular seizes if it spends a winter behind a wheel arch.

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