Riding Safe

Riding for work: the kit that matters at eleven at night

A cyclist riding at night in the city

Riding for work: the kit that matters at eleven at night

Most of our late trade is riders who work. The failures that end a shift are predictable, and almost all of them are cheap to prevent.

What fails, in order

  1. Lights. Battery lights run out mid-shift, usually in the rain when they are hardest to change.
  2. Tubes. A puncture on Eighth Avenue at eleven o’clock.
  3. Brake pads. Wet weather and stop-start riding wear pads fast, and a rider notices when the lever comes back to the bar.
  4. Chargers and cables. Connectors fail from vibration and from being wound tightly.
  5. Locks. Frozen or gritty cylinders, usually in January.

Lights, taken seriously

For someone riding forty hours a week after dark, lighting is not an accessory.

  • Two rear lights. One on the seatpost, one on the bag or helmet. One will run out and you will not notice.
  • A front light bright enough to see with, not just be seen. Potholes at night are the actual hazard.
  • Charge on a schedule, not when the light dims. Sunday night, every week.
  • Carry a spare rear light in the bag. They cost very little and end a category of problem.

Being visible from the side

Front and rear lights do nothing at a junction, where the risk is a vehicle crossing your path. Spoke reflectors, reflective sidewall tyres or wheel lights are what make you visible from 90 degrees. Riders skip this and it is the geometry that most often matters in the city.

The bag that should be on the bike

  • Tube (front size at minimum), two levers, mini pump
  • Multi-tool with the hex sizes your bike uses
  • Spare rear light
  • Zip ties — genuinely the most useful roadside item there is
  • A cloth and a pair of disposable gloves
  • Spare lock key, kept separately from the one on your person

Rain

Brake performance in the wet is the thing that changes most. Leave more distance, brake earlier, and expect the first squeeze to do very little on a wet rim brake. Check pads more often in winter; grit embeds in the pad and then machines the rim.

For the bike, dry the chain and re-lubricate after a wet shift. A chain that is ridden wet and left wet is a chain replaced twice as often.

The battery, in cold weather

Lithium capacity drops in the cold — noticeably below about 40°F. Two consequences: your range on a January night is not your July range, and a battery should be brought inside to charge at room temperature rather than charged cold.

Do not charge a battery that has been dropped hard or that looks swollen, and do not charge blocking your exit.

A ten-minute weekly check

  1. Tyre pressure with a gauge
  2. Brake pad thickness and lever travel
  3. Chain wear and lubrication
  4. All lights charged and mounted firmly
  5. Quick-release levers and axle nuts tight
  6. Battery connector clean and locked

Ten minutes on a Sunday prevents most of what would otherwise happen on a Thursday night.

We are open when you finish

Eight in the morning to half past eleven at night, every day. If the shift ends at ten and something needs fixing before tomorrow, there is somewhere on 38th Street to take it.

Rain gear that survives a shift

The jacket that works for a commute rarely works for eight hours. Look for pit zips or back vents, because a fully waterproof shell without ventilation soaks you from the inside within an hour of hard riding.

Bright colours and reflective panels matter more than they do for a daytime commuter, and a peaked hood or a cap under the helmet keeps rain off glasses, which is the thing that most affects whether you can see.

Hands and feet

The two places that end a winter shift early. Lobster-style gloves are warmer than fingered ones and keep enough dexterity for brakes and a phone. Waterproof overshoes cost little and are the difference between cold feet and numb ones.

Carry a spare pair of gloves in a plastic bag. Wet gloves at the halfway point do not dry, and a dry pair for the second half of a shift is worth more than almost anything else you can carry.

Phone battery in the cold

The same physics that hits your bike battery hits your phone, and the phone is how the work arrives. Keep it in an inside pocket rather than a bar mount when it is very cold, carry a small power bank, and accept that a phone showing 40% at 20°F may shut down without warning.

Knowing when to stop

Ice is the one condition where the honest advice is not to ride. Black ice on a bridge deck or a painted line gives no warning and no recovery, and no equipment addresses it. The same applies to riding when exhausted at the end of a long shift.

We would rather see you the next day than sell you something that makes riding in those conditions feel survivable.

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